Inhorgenta News, Part II

Since 1973, Munich’s Inhorgenta fair has been showcasing novelties in the watches, jewelry, gemstones and related genres. This year the jewelry fair took place from 20 to 23 February. Below examples from authentic designers in hall C 2.

Leen Heyne

Tilburg / The Netherlands / leenheyne.nl / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 206

Fold bangle. 750 yellow gold.

Dutch designer Leen Heyne crafted this handmade bangle by pressing, folding and hammering a single strip of gold, using a technique that he gradually developed over many years of practice. The gold’s weight and rich color remind Heyne of an ancient treasure. This bangle was one of his first models, which he initially made from silver, but “after several years of experience, I’m finally able to make it in the harder material of 750 gold,” Heyne says. It’s interesting to see how successfully Heyne works with the Möbius strip, which sparks enthusiasm among all those who study it. But this designer shapes his double hoop in a contemporary, emotional and artistically impressive form. Last but not least, this piece of jewelry perfectly complements the theme of the current issue of Art Aurea: we can readily imagine that this bangle will indeed “grow old in beauty.”

Violetta Elisa Seliger

Bonn / Germany / violettaelisaseliger.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 212

Earrings. 750 gold.

Pin. 925 silver.

Claudia Hoppe

Düsseldorf / Germany / claudia-hoppe.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 319

q + x bangles. 750 gold. Ø ca. 6 cm, W 2,5–4,5 cm. Photo David Huycke.

The anthropologist Gregory Bateson famously declared, “It takes two to know one.” This is also the sense in which Claudia Hoppe designs her bangles, which are simultaneously autonomous sculptures that make their dynamic statements by interacting with their wearers’ bodies. Each wearer is the partner for an exciting dialogue between minimalist geometry and the organic lines of a female body. When the jewelry is worn, the two unite to form a single, well-balanced whole in which the opposites reflect each other’s power and beauty.

Jutta Ulland

Ahaus / Germany / jutta-ulland.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 224

Dreh dich…im Kreis (turn yourself in a circle) rings. 750 yellow and white gold, 925 gold-plated silver or 925 silver.

Jutta Ulland has developed rings to match the pendants and ear studs in her Dreh dich…im Kreis (turn yourself in a circle) collection. Smaller bands seem to spin out of a frame and to move into the interior of the circle. Each turn intensifies the depth of these elegant pieces of jewelry. In all variants, the outer circle conveys a feeling of serenity and forms a firm frame. The wearer can choose to leave space free for her turn or to fill the entire circle. New at Inhorgenta 2015: the Flammenspiel (play of flames) collection, where “the spectrum ranges from a delicate flame to a blazing fire.” Let it spark your enthusiasm!

Eva Strepp

Keltern / Germany / evastrepp.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 317

Twin bangles. Steel cable, Tahitian pearls.

The Twin armlet again proves the innovativeness with which Eva Strepp stages pearls in modern jewelry. The variably sized armlet adapts to slip over hands of all widths and to fit perfectly around the arm. Twin has no visible fastening and can be slid freely up or down the arm. After overcoming the breadth of the hand, the stainless steel hoop elastically returns to its original shape. The pearls serve as a stabile guide. Small pearls enhance the wearing comfort and form a counterpoise to the closure’s large pearls. For purists, the model with the Tahitian pearl embodies the idea in its clearest, most reduced form.

Karola Torkos / Sabine Müller

sabine-mueller.com / karakola.com / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 122/223

Karola Torkos’s jewelry can be characterized as minimalist, variably wearable and full of playful lightness, while Sabine Müller’s pieces can be pertinently described as “cubistically sculptural.” This year marks the two designers’ fourth collaborative presentation of their jewelry at Inhorgenta.

Gerullis-Seliger

Freiburg / Germany / gerullis-seliger.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 212

Bangles. Silver plated with fine gold.

Distinctive accents are created by the new bangles that Gerullis-Seliger is showing at Inhorgenta 2015 in Munich. The balance between painterly gesture and clearly constructed, rhythmically repeating lines, stripes and signs succeeds skillfully and easily. The determining feature is the alternation between expressive, dynamically texturedsurfaces in vibrant white and rich yellow, cool silver and the incomparable warmth of fine gold. With their jewelry, both Heidi Gerullis-Seliger and Reiner Seliger move experimentally in the charged field between fine art and applied art. Although these pieces of jewelry are created in small series, the experimental techniques give each item the character of a one-of-a-kind creation.

Nicole Walger

Stuttgart / Germany / nicole-walger.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 226

teilen (share) rings. Fine gold or fine silver.

Tanja Friedrichs

Duisburg / Germany / tanjafriedrichs.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 217

Rings from the collection Reine Zierde (pure ornamentation). 750 yellow gold or 760 palladium white gold, cultivated pearl or Tahitian pearl.

Several imitators tried to copy the way Tanja Friedrich uses pearl wire in her Reine Zierde (pure ornamentation) collection, but none have come close to her quality in design and craftsmanship. In Méridien de Perle, a pearl creates a quiet sound by swinging freely in a golden double circle around a ring of gallery wire. Poetry as accessory!

Step by Step

Thalwil / Switzerland / stepbystep.ch / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 422

600551 necklace. Aluminium, rubber. Design Ursula Müller.

Barbara Schulte-Hengesbach

Düsseldorf / Germany / schulte-hengesbach.com / Inhorgenta Munich Hall B1 Stand 205/306

Pendant Sternenstaub (stardust). 750 yellow gold, silicone carbide. Photo Anka Bardeleben.

Earring Orbit. 750 yellow gold. Ring Rosen (roses). 750 yellow gold, mabe pearl. Photo Anka Bardeleben.

Barbara Schulte-Hengesbach is synonymous with constructive clarity united with elegance and symbolism. She’s also well known as a maker of kinetic jewelry. Together with Claudia Schmedding and Andreas Lehmann, this Düsseldorf-based designer now has two capable young partners who share her philosophy at her side. The Orbit collection unites three or four ellipses or orbits to produce a spatial piece of jewelry. This instantaneously creates a complex form which originates from a simple circle. For the Rosen (roses) collection, a single sophisticatedly wound strip of gold suffices to embody a rose, full of emotional depth and subtle poetry. Sternenstaub (stardust) glitters with a unique combination of materials: namely, yellow gold and the high-tech ceramic substance silicon carbide. Fired at 2,500°C for five days, it’s one of the hardest materials in existence.

Franziska Rappold

Freiburg / Germany / franziska-rappold.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 214

Würfelchenkette (little cubes necklace). Fine gold plated fine silver.

Rahel Fiebelkorn

Berlin / Germany / rahel-fiebelkorn.de / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 304/405

Spindel (spindle) necklace. Stainless steel, thread, synthetic resin, silver, prehnite. Photo Felix R. Krull.

Cardillac

Arnhem / The Netherlands / cardillac.nl / Inhorgenta Munich Hall C2 Stand 200

Spanish Dancer ring. 750 yellow gold, diamonds.

The Spanish Dancer ring was inspired by the homonymous marine snail. The rarely encountered Spanish dancer of the sea is a beautiful, vividly red creature. Crafted from gold with diamonds, the elegantly curving ring calls to mind the movements of a dancer on a dance floor, where she attracts everyone’s admiring gaze. The company’s name likewise has a poetic source: established in 1988, Cardillac is named after the goldsmith Cardillac in E.T.A. Hoffman’s novel Mademoiselle de Scudéri.