Threads of Gold

This is the first time that pieces by the internationally renowned jewelry artist are being shown in Munich. Born in 1949, she was the first Western student to complete kumihimo training in Japan. Kumihimo is an ancient Japanese braiding technique used to make elaborate, patterned silk cords. Martin practices this art, which requires the utmost precision, with wafer-thin wires of fine gold and platinum. The meditative process results in delicate weaves and elegant patterns. She devoted herself entirely to the evolution of this technique while studying at the Royal College of Art in London from 1992 to 1994.

Anhänger Blütenblätter, [Pendant of Petals], 2019. Gold, platinum, moonstone. Photo James Champion.

Paper earrings, 2018. Gold and platinum. Photo James Champion.

While searching for clasps or pins for her precious metal braids, Martin became aware of the young German goldsmith Dorle Pätzold, who was one of her fellow students at the Royal College of Art. The two artists have worked as a team ever since. Numerous imaginative necklaces, pendants, brooches and earrings have been created on the basis of the kumihimo technique during the past 25 years. The design and the braid are by Catherine Martin; afterwards Dorle Pätzold further processes the pieces and makes them wearable. Commenting on her work with gold, Marti says: “I love the color and sensuality but above all the timelessness … the thought of continuing a tradition of using this beautiful material which has been used for adornment for centuries.”

Earrings of five leaves, gold and platinum, 2019. Photo James Champion.

Brigitte Scheytt, who has been fascinated by Martin’s work for many years, asked Dorle Pätzold to curate the exhibition. The goldsmith has worked on a freelance basis for the Scheytt siblings since the opening of their gallery in 2016. She is also successfully represented with her own jewelry creations at Gallery Scheytt. Catherine Martin will be present at the vernissage, where she will give a talk about on her work.