The jewelry and watch industry starts its new season at the Inhorgenta Munich trade fair from February 22-25, 2019. A few weeks later, the same venue hosts the International Crafts Fair with “Handwerk & Design,” the world’s most important meeting place for art jewelry. The Crafts Fair is open to the public, but Inhorgenta is reserved for trade buyers, although artistic craftsmanship is also present here in Hall C2: e.g. in the “Silversmiths’ Forum,” at the universities’ group exhibitions and at the stand of the Bayerischer Kunstgewerbeverein [Bavarian Arts and Crafts Association] (BKV).
For modern jewelry design the Inhorgenta Trade Fair is unique – but it could be better
The exhibitors in Hall C2, along with several studios and manufactories in Hall B1, represent a jewelry culture that is more strongly shaped by modern art and design here than anywhere else in the world. As our examples show, a whole series of designers and manufacturers at Inhorgenta stand for the highest quality in design and manufacturing. They’re complemented by innovations from designers who are not represented at Inhorgenta this year.
Some names of the halls at Inhorgenta sound rather ambitious, e.g. “Timepieces” for watches or “Elegance & Lifestyle” for costume jewelry. “Fine Jewelry” is the title of Hall B1, where German manufacturers such as Niessing, Henrich&Denzel and IsabelleFa will show their pieces; and Hall C2 will be called “Contemporary Design & Vision.” Also somewhat confusing is the large number of themes in Hall C2, where circa 280 goldsmiths, silversmiths, designers and artists will gather in 2019. “Brand New –New Brand” is the name of the entry-level platform for university graduates. The so-called “Forum Innovation” is likewise reserved for newcomers, although it has been years since anything even marginally innovative has been shown here. Established designers can be found in “Forum Konzepte.”
Leen Heyne, ring Marquis. Knotted ring, dark grey gold, brown diamond. Hall C2, Booth 203. www.leenheyne.nl
Claudia Hoppe, bangle and earrings swing. 750 Gold. Photo David Huycke. Inhorgenta Hall C2, Aisle C, Both 313. www.claudia-hoppe.de
Oliver Schmidt, ring combination knot ring simple and endless band. 750 rose gold with brilliants. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Both 303. www.ol-schmidt.de
For decades, Inhorgenta achieved many accomplishments for the jewelry and watch industry. The fair is exemplary in numerous respects. It also was and still is good that Inhorgenta provides a high-class, trade-fair platform for modern, contemporary jewelry design in Hall C2. But arranging the exhibition halls according to terms such as “Fine Jewelry,” “Elegance & Lifestyle” or “Contemporary Design & Vision” isn’t appropriate to the halls’ contents: “Fine Jewelry” simply means jewelry made from precious materials, but such jewelry can also be found in Hall C2; “Contemporary Design” and (hopefully) visions are naturally also displayed in Hall B1, which also hosts exhibits by the best remaining German manufactories and several designers; and should the concepts of elegance and lifestyle really be reserved solely for costume jewelry in Hall C1?
In 2019, Germany celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus, which influenced modern architecture and design around the globe. The Bauhaus was a tremendously successful cultural export. In the German-speaking region, the Bauhaus’ ideas resulted in a new, contemporary jewelry culture unlike any other elsewhere in the world. But culture thrives on truth and clarity. This would be particularly important for jewelry, which underwent a process of reinvention in recent decades. Inhorgenta Munich could be even better if someone in the fair’s management understood this.
Jutta Ulland, earrings Opposites. Available in 750 gold, 925 silver and silver gold plated. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Stand 319. www.jutta-ulland.de
Kay Eppi Nölke, Rings For solitary or colored comets landing. 750 gold , 950 platinum, safir, aquamarine, peridot, tourmaline, ruby, diamond. Photo Franz-Josef Stiele-Werdermann. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Booth 209. www.ep-ep.de
Dorothea Brill, Lotus, necklace from the series Meter-wise. 925 silver, freshwater pearl. Photo Oliver Mann. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Booth 209. www.dorothea-brill.de
Patrick Malotki, drop rings from the series Swing. Yellow / white 750 gold and stainless steel black. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Aisle B, Booth 207. www.patrickmalotki.de
Nicole Walger, rings soil. 900 gold and 935 silver. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Booth 207. www.nicole-walger.de
Vera Rhodius, two chains. Silver plated with fine gold. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Aisle B, Booth 223. www.vera-rhodius-schmuck.de
Annette Ehinger, earrings. 585 gold, smoky quartz, pink tourmaline. Inhorgenta, Hall C2, Booth 218. www.annette-ehinger.de
Kathrin Sättele, jewelry, Knospe [Bud]. 750 gold, forged. www.saettele-schmuck.de
Stefanie Prießnitz, long necklace strung. 925 silver and onyx. www.stefaniepriessnitz.de
- Inhorgenta Munich
- Friday–Sunday 9 am–6 pm